Graphics cards,
repaired at the board level.
No display, artifacting, running hot, or a melted power connector? A dead card is usually one failed component, not a write-off. We work under a microscope, down to replacing failed memory chips, here in Ithaca or shipped in from anywhere in the US.
The faults we see most
From a card that shows nothing at all to one that only misbehaves under load. Tell us what it’s doing and when it started, and we’ll tell you what it usually means.
No display or no signal
The system powers on but nothing reaches the monitor, or the card isn’t detected at all. We test it in a known-good bench system first to prove whether the card or the rest of the build is at fault.
Artifacting & failed memory
Colored blocks, flickering textures, or crashes that only show up under load. We run the card hard to find the failing memory chip, then replace it. Removing dead VRAM, prepping the pads, and fitting a reballed chip is work we do on the bench here.
Overheating & thermal throttling
Clocks dropping and temperatures climbing under load. We strip the cooler, replace the paste and the memory and VRM thermal pads with the right thickness, and re-test temperatures against where the card should sit.
Fan noise & fan replacement
Rattling, grinding, or a fan that has stopped spinning entirely. We replace failed fans and clear the heatsink so the cooler moves air the way it was designed to.
Melted & burnt power connectors
Scorched 12VHPWR or 8-pin connectors from a bad seat or a partial contact. We assess the damage to the connector and the board underneath, because the melt is often only the visible half of the problem.
Board-level power repair
Failed power stages, MOSFETs, and shorted rails on the PCB. We repair the board at the component level where the fault allows it, instead of writing off a working card for one dead part.
Display output ports
A HDMI or DisplayPort connector that only works at an angle, or has bent or broken pins. We replace the damaged port on the board so the output holds a stable connection again.
Liquid damage & corrosion
A leaking custom loop or a spill that reached the card. We clean the corrosion, inspect what the liquid touched, and tell you honestly whether the board is recoverable.
Not sure which one yours is? Bring the card in and we’ll find out before you spend anything on parts.
Most shops replace the card. We repair it.
A graphics card is a circuit board, and when one fails it is usually a single component that has gone, not the whole card. We work at that level: find the failed part, replace it, and give you back the card you already own.
Get it looked atWe diagnose to the component, not the card
Under a microscope with a bench supply and a thermal camera, we find the part that failed. A card drawing a dead short on a rail gets traced to the specific component causing it, so the repair is a targeted fix rather than a guess.
Power delivery is what we repair most
The VRM does the hardest work on the card and it is where most electrical failures start. Failed power stages, gate drivers, and burnt connectors are the repairs we see most and the ones with the best odds of a clean result.
We replace failed memory, not just parts around it
A card artifacting on a dead VRAM chip is a repair, not a write-off. We lift the failed chip off, clean and prep the pads, and fit a reballed replacement. It is slow, exacting work and very few shops will take it on, which is exactly why we do.
And we tell you when it isn’t worth it
A failed GPU core is usually the end of the road, and a card that has already been heavily worked on by someone else is a poor bet. When that is what we find, we say so and charge you the diagnostic rather than sell you a repair with bad odds.
Not local? Ship the card to us
A graphics card on its own packs small and ships cheaply, which makes it one of the easier things to send in. We diagnose it, send you a firm price, and ship it back insured and tracked once the repair is done.
03 How we diagnose a card
Proof first, then a price
Half the cards that come in as dead turn out to be a power supply, a slot, or a software problem. We prove which it is before anyone talks about repairing anything, and nothing billable happens until you approve the price.
Bench test the card
We put the card in a known-good test system with a known-good power supply. That separates a genuinely faulty card from a bad slot, a failing PSU, or a software problem in your build, before anything gets taken apart.
Find the failed part
1 to 2 business daysWe check the power rails for shorts, inspect the board under magnification, and use a thermal camera to find components running hot. That points at the actual failure instead of a parts-swap guess.
Firm quote, or a straight no
You get a firm price once we know what failed. The $79 diagnostic fee goes directly toward the cost of your repair, so if you proceed you are not paying extra for the diagnosis. If the card isn’t worth repairing, we tell you that instead.
Repair, then stress test
3 to 5 business daysWe do the repair, reassemble the cooler with fresh paste and pads, then run the card under sustained load and watch temperatures and stability before it goes back to you. Finished repairs carry a 90-day warranty on our work.
Buying a faster card instead?
A new card may need more power or more physical room than your build has. Tell us the model you are looking at, or bring the tower in, and we’ll check the power supply, the connectors, and the clearance before you spend the money. We fit it and test it too.
PC & desktop repairBefore you buy, we check
- Power supply wattage and the connectors your card needs
- Case clearance, length, and how many slots it takes
- Whether the rest of the build can keep up with it
- Fitting, drivers, and a load test once it is in
Common questions
Is my graphics card still under warranty?+
Check before you bring it to us. Most cards carry a two or three year manufacturer warranty, and opening the card or removing the cooler will normally void it. If your card is still covered, an RMA through the manufacturer is the cheaper path and we will tell you so. We are the option for cards out of warranty, cards the manufacturer won’t cover, and cards you need back faster than an RMA can manage.
Is it worth repairing instead of replacing?+
It depends on the card and the fault. On a current high-end card, a board-level power repair or a connector replacement is usually far cheaper than a replacement. On an older mid-range card, the repair can cost more than the card is worth, and we will say that plainly rather than take the job. The $79 diagnostic tells you which situation you are in.
Can you fix artifacting?+
Usually, yes. Artifacting from overheating memory often improves once the thermal pads and paste are done properly. When a memory chip has actually failed, we replace it: the dead chip comes off, the pads are cleaned and prepped, and a reballed chip goes back on. That is real bench work and most shops will not attempt it, so a card another shop called unrepairable is worth showing us. Artifacting from a failed GPU core is the one case that is usually the end of the road, and we tell you that before you spend anything.
My power connector melted. Can that be repaired?+
Often, yes. We replace the damaged connector and inspect the board underneath it, because heat that melted the plug has usually reached the traces and components around it too. What we find under the connector decides whether it is a straightforward repair or a bigger job, and you get the price before we start.
Do I bring the whole computer or just the card?+
Just the card is fine if you are confident the card is the problem, and it makes the job faster. If you are not sure whether the fault is the card, the power supply, or the board, bring the tower in and we will find out. Either way, we test the card in our own bench system so the diagnosis doesn’t depend on the rest of your build.
How long does a graphics card repair take?+
We ask for 1 to 2 business days for the diagnostic, then most repairs are finished within 3 to 5 business days once you approve the price. Board-level work that needs a specific component ordered in can take longer, and we tell you the realistic timeline with your quote.
Can I mail my card in from outside Ithaca?+
Yes. We take graphics cards by mail from anywhere in the US. A card on its own ships easily and cheaply, which makes it one of the better things to send in. Request a quote on our mail-in page and we will reply with your price and the shipping address.
What our customers say
“Solid service. I just needed a battery. I thought they might tell me other maintenance was necessary but no. I appreciated how thorough the technician was. I’d definitely reccomend.”
Parker Hurley · Google review
“Was able to get a prompt appointment for an Apple authorized iPhone battery replacement. The fellows at the store were helpful and thorough, making sure that the phone was fully functioning after the replacement.”
Jonathan Sidhu · Google review
“I had a great experience at Gadget Repair - they were so kind and efficient and I also witnessed them helping two other customers while I was there and was so impressed! These guys are the best! So grateful they fixed my phone!”
melinda daetsch · Google review
“Walked in with a green screen and in a panic all morning and they were able to fix it within less than 2 hours. Absolutely would recommend!”
Elizabeth Castrenze · Google review
“These folks are incredibly helpful, knowledgeable, efficient and kind. Lucky to have them.”
MS R · Google review
06 Request a quote
Bring the card to South Meadow Street
Stop by the shop or call and describe what the card is doing. We’ll tell you what it usually means, what the diagnostic involves, and whether it’s worth repairing at all.
Serving Ithaca since 201525,000+ repairs completed